Thursday, May 17, 2007

Brisbane: 16th-17th May.

Arriving mid-day from Surfer’s Paradise, we dumped our stuff in a hostel of questionable cleanliness- only 2 girls in a 10 bed dorm = very stinky. We headed into town for a quick look around to find out what there is to do in Brisbane, before ambling over the river to eat our picnic on the South Bank. Getting nicer and nicer as we walked along the river, we came across a Nepalese pagoda, a small rainforest section, some very chic restaurants and bars in buildings from 1875, complete with pretty wrought-iron balconies, and an artificial Baywatch beach with imported sand surrounding a pool next to the river. It sounds tacky, but this pool was a hive of activity, and we could only imagine what it would be like in the summer. It also made an excellent addition to the university on the South Bank, the ‘Queensland Conservatorium Griffith University’, and was perhaps even an improvement on our beloved Broad (heaven forbid!). After a brief stop to sample the delights of a quaint sweet shop, and a second to sample the library’s internet facilities, we made our way to the ‘GOMA’ (Gallery of Modern Art), where the exhibitions were many and varied. There was one based on the Vietnamese War, an interesting one by an Indian artist using vivid-coloured powders (which reminded us of the Holi festival we had encountered in Delhi) and optical illusions. There was also a display featuring many clips of Jackie Chan’s work which Armelle especially enjoyed. Probably the most fun though, was one which featured a dark room with suspended fluorescent balls reflected into infinity by mirrors on the walls and ceiling, and a pool of water covering the floor.
Once we’d feasted our senses for long enough, we hot-footed it back to the hostel to change, before heading back to the South Bank in search of some climbing rumoured to be happening on Wednesday evenings, which Jess thought she’d enjoy. What happened next was a bit of a let-down to be honest, despite Jess’ enthusiasm. The lady running the climbing didn’t appear to be too bothered about her ‘new climbers’ as she was too busy talking on her hands-free. The real low point, however was when she started telling everyone that we were climbing on RHYOLITE, and that it was a SEDIMENTARY rock, and that you might even find fossils in it if you were a palaeontologist, which clearly she was not! It was probably rhyolite, it was very probably NOT sedimentary, and the only way it would contain fossils is if a dinosaur had tripped and fallen into the lava flow. It was a real effort not to undermine the instructor (who REALLY should have known better) that eve.
Anyway, despite the very poor climbing experience, Armelle was happy to relax with her book between the floodlit rockface and the river; with a beautiful view of the CBD on the opposite bank, all lit up.
The next day we had a bit of a lie-in and caught the bus to the Mount Coot-tha lookout, where we got a spectacular view of the city of Brisbane, made even better by the glorious sunshine and warmth. Rather than waiting for the bus, we decided to do a short walk from here down to the Botanic Gardens at the bottom of the steep hill. This promised aboriginal art and a waterfall (which we were not sure we believed existed due to area being in drought.) On the way we met a couple of Americans, but reaching a divide in the path we chose to follow an arrow, while they took the other path and so we went our separate ways. Thinking all the time that the slope would descend and the Botanic Gardens would be just around the corner, we walked quite a way before starting to get uneasy. After walking uphill for a while on a path that didn’t look like it had been used much recently, we decided to just keep going in the belief that we MUST come across a signpost soon. Jess didn’t want to go back incase we made the same mistake we had done Christchurch-when we had been close to the end of a circle and had re-walked the entire loop. We walked quickly, partly to get to the end and find out where we were, and partly because we thought we might be eaten by snakes (‘the black ones are bad but the brown ones are worse’), or spiders, or in fact anything, Australia having a reputation for its wildlife not being too welcoming to ignorant newcomers. We stomped to scare the snakes (good theory but we didn’t really want to be trying it out) and talked a little louder. Armelle was reminded of a similar time in Yellowstone, where she was convinced she was going to be eaten by bears, and in voicing this concern persuaded Becca that she was going to arrive at the same fate. It had only been afterwards that the two of them discovered that the bears were in hibernation, after a brief scramble up a sheet of black ice. Back on the ‘short walk’, after what seemed more like an uphill half-marathon, we eventually came across a sign facing the other direction. On reaching it we were happily informed that the path we had been walking was ‘closed for restoration’, but happened to plonk us at the edge of a road with a T.V mast in view, so we were able to get some bearings on the appalling tourist map we had. And through all that we never did see the fabled water-fall; and the ‘aboriginal art’ consisted of a few piles of (recently) painted stones with unfathomable meanings which Armelle though were cool, despite them having been placed carefully next to the path rather than the other way around. We finally made it to the Botanic Gardens, which were very pretty and well kept, (with a massive ‘herbarium’ and library) and where we ‘dined’ on our squashed sandwiches in the Japanese garden.
After a quick peek at the Bonsai trees which Armelle had been interested in, we made our way to the Planetarium which was on the same grounds as the gardens. Here we thanked our lucky stars for our student cards once more (sorry, couldn’t resist it), and bought a ticket for the presentation. After ambling around the planetarium for a while and looking at the fabulous photographs, we took our seats in the theatre, and marveled (well, one of us marveled while the other had a quick kip) as the planets, stars, galaxies and nebulae were projected onto the curved ceiling in a presentation cheesily called ‘Infinity Express’. This concluded with a projection of what we could see in the Brisbane sky during the current nights, though both of us felt that we would be satisfied to identify Orion’s belt, or at least Venus. After the Planetarium, we blogged the night away and got ourselves ready for our next destination, Noosa, about 3.5 hours north, Greyhound stylee.

Byron Bay & Surfer's Paradise: 12th-15th May.

Eager to be in Byron Bay for Saturday night, we decided to opt for the overnight Greyhound from Sydney. However, with 4 drunken Irish inconsiderate beings sitting behind us, we were both cursing under our breaths, praying for a good night's sleep. Once clambering off the bus around 9 am the next morning, we were thrilled to find that the Irish we heading to the same hostel as us- Main Beach Backpackers, but on arrival they weren’t in our dorm: result! Anyhow, we had a quick nose at the beach before heading to bedfordshire for an hour or so. The rest of the afternoon we meandered around town and did some desperately urgent washing. At 7pm it was time to enjoy a B.B.Q. laid on by the hostel which included a sausage, burger, salad and jacket potato- it felt like forever since we had had a decent filling meal. To quench our thirst we headed out to the Beach Hotel for a drink on the veranda followed by a stroll through town enjoying the live music blaring from each drinking establishment. We then settled on an icecream in Baskin31Robbins instead of another drink (expensive, but Jess was still dreaming of it 2 days later!), taking a pew on the grassy bank overlooking the sea.
The next day we read the morning away and then decided to walk to the most easterly point of Australia- the light house. Well, this semi happened, as by the time we reached the end of the beach and climbed a rocky outcrop to watch the surfers we decided that the light house could not possibly be any more easterly compared to where we were standing. This judgment may be slightly swayed by the fact that you had to climb to the top of a substantial hill to reach the light house! As we walked back to town, it decided to rain. We turned this disappointing change in the weather into a productive (if very long!) spell on the internet, bringing the blog reasonably up to date. The next morning, Armelle ran to join a yoga class in a studio right on the beach. This 90 minute dose of exercise and meditation was greatly appreciated by a rather weary body! During that time, Jess browsed the shops and sorted out some internet banking issues. We then absorbed the rays on the beach before heading back to the Greyhound stop to catch our 2.50 pm bus to Surfer's Paradise. As the sun set, the high rised buildings of Surfer's Paradise dominated the horizon. The view conjured up excitement and mild disgust at the colossal eyesore. As described by the Lonely Planet: ‘like a big, tacky, wild ride, the Gold Coast welcomes you with a blinding and unapologetic smack of tourist development’. This statement was instantly turned into a reality when a LIMO picked us up from the bus stop to escort us to Sleeping Inn Surfers hostel a whole 500 meters down the road!
Sleeping Inn was actually our favorite hostel so far. It is a converted motel so each dorm is actually like an apartment with its our kitchen, t.v and bathroom. We met great people while staying in our apartment, including Hugo and Ryan who, after a quick whizz around the supermarket, we then sampled Surfers night life with. The hostel had arranged for free entry, first free drink, free food (well you sort of had to fight for a piece of pizza) and cheap drinks until midnight at a club called Crazy Monkeys. After drinking our way through a tad too many vodka cranberries, we went next door to a shooters bar, decked out in wooden paneling, saloon style. Armelle climbed onto the podium, a compulsory activity when a few drinks have been consumed! It then took us a while to get home as after a pizza stop we came across a street busker. We then joined in, much to the musicians delight, and questionably sung our little hearts out to old classic such as Hotel California and American Pie. We then continued on our way and got talking to a guy who apparently knows Armelle's brother Francois and got very excited about it- someone from Chilgrove or Chidham or something beginning with 'C' called Jack! Jess tends to get a little tiddly very quickly whereas Armelle takes a while longer for the alcohol to take effect, meaning that one of us normally wakes up with a severe hangover as the other gets away scotts free due to being sober by bed time! The next day, we gently strolled around the gleaming clean, palm tree lined town centre before grabbing our beach stuff and descending on the beach with Hugo and Ryan. That evening we undeniably ate the best value for money dinner ever! This meal for just over 2 pounds involved all you can eat Dominos pizza, around 60 pizza boxes carted in, enough leftovers for breaky! Our apartment crew then watched Blades of Glory- a brilliant pirated film which hasn’t yet been released in OZ! At an ungodly hour the next morning Jess hauled herself out of bed to take some photos of the sunrise. It was quite a monumental effort, but was worth it in the end: the pictures speak for themselves.
At a slightly more reasonable hour that morning, it was already time to move onto our next destination, Brisbane, an hour and a half north.

Sydney: 6th-11th May.

The first day in Sydney was full of ups and downs- waves of tiredness intermingled with the excitement which you can’t help but feel when you’re in Sydney. After checking into Wake Up and satisfying our hunger for breakfast down the road at the neighboring YHA, we were dismayed to discover that we had been sold the wrong Greyhound tickets. Unfortunately there was nothing we could do about it there and then as it was a Sunday and STA was shut so we were unable to speak to the clever woman who had sold us the pass which didn’t have enough km on it. We then strolled around Darling Harbour.
Jess spent the rest of the morning at the Maritime Museum where she went on the boat ‘First Lady’- (the first boat to circumnavigate the globe sailed by an Aussie lady in 1987), and appreciated some artistic photos taken by Bill Noyes of fishing boats on the Irish of Arran in the 1960s. In the afternoon we both wandered up to Circular Quay and through to The Rocks where we browsed the Sunday market before having a drink and some gorgeous potato wedges in one of the many pubs with live music in the area.
On returning to the hostel we used our 2 for 1 drink vouchers in the hostel pub which was more than enough to give Jess a good night's sleep! Monday morning we carted all our belongings up to Base Backpackers, which was in a much better location behind the Town Hall. We then wandered around for a bit before Armelle did some internetting to try and meet up with some of her friends while we were in Sydney and Jess headed up the Sydney tower for a spectacular view of the harbour (which she had missed out on in Auckland).
Mid afternoon we made our way to the Opera House and were very pleased with ourselves when we got a $10 ‘student’ discount with our new cards. The tour was really interesting, especially the architecture, and we got to see a couple of acts rehearsing too.
On our way back we took our time over a coffee at Circular Quay, before spending the evening blogging (yes really) and avoiding the cockroaches which went hand in hand with the cheapness of the internet cafĂ©. The next day we invested our pennies in a trip to the Blue Mountains. On the 2 hour bus journey we got to know our group as the tour leader insisted that we individually come to the front of the bus and tell everyone about ourselves into a microphone- there is a reason that public speaking is the number 1 fear amongst human beings! Jess informed everybody that having graduated in Environmental Science we are really into the whole nature thing. Half an hour later we had to suffer extreme humiliation as the group split and we decided to see the views by being carted around in the bus rather than going on the 3 hour canyon hike- the shame as the tour guide ridiculed us kindly!! First stop with our new tour guide (a keen biologist) we clambered to The Rock where we were rewarded by 360 degree views of the Great Dividing Range. We then went on a miniscule bushwalk to an ancient Wind-Cave which was stunning with its colourings and pockets of erosion. We were then taken to another view point where we got a spectacular view of Gross Valley. The next and final view point stop before lunch was at a well know hand gliding launching point, the outer edge of the Blue Mountains (apparently not mountains but outcrops created by tectonic uplift- a point constantly made by our guide) where rolling green farmland stretched as far as the eye could see. After lunch at Blackheath and an in depth conversation about opal between Jess and an antique dealer in the market, we headed to see the Three Sisters and view the Jamison Valley at Katoomba. Armelle then toddled off with some members of the group to descend into the valley on the scenic railway- the steepest railway in the world. She thought it was going to be a bit crap in all honesty but as it tilted to a near vertical position and plunged into the leafy darkness below it was actually brilliant fun! After a short meander around the mining cave entrances at the bottom, a cable car delivered the group back to the top. It was then time to exit the park but this was not before enjoying a coffee while walking among mobs of kangaroos! It was such an experience being able to get so close to them in the wild. Once delivered back to the hostel we manically rushed to get ready to head out for drinks with one of Armelle’s friends, Zuzanna and later on James. (Zuzanna and James are a couple who used to work at Comme Ca- Zuzanna as a waitress and James as a chef. They then moved to Sydney where Zuzanna studies and works while James has a job as a chef at The Rock Pool, the best restaurant in Sydney where a ton of famous people go, e.g. Bono and Kylie, all very exciting!) Anyhow, three gaggling girls migrated towards Circular Quay to sample the incredibly cheap champagne at the Ship Inn.

A bottle later we then moved to a bar a block down where another bottle was enjoyed.

After meeting James at the end of his shift, we went back to the Ship Inn where time miraculously disappeared and we tumbled out of a taxi outside the hostel gone 3am! After a very necessary lie in we descended heavily on the shopping district of central Sydney- George and Pitt Street. Since arriving in Australia, we had very much noticed how members of both genders are immaculately dressed in all the latest gear. In India, Nepal and New Zealand we had no reason to look anywhere near attractive especially being holed up in a campervan and cast into the wilderness for a month! So of course a practically entire new wardrobe was a wholly appropriate investment. Many, many hours later we deposited our bags at the hostel and drifted through Chinatown on the way to Darling Harbour. On the steps down to the water, we sipped our coffees while absorbing the atmosphere and twinkling lights of the city. We then spent a couple of hours at the aquarium suspiciously admiring the weird and wonderful fish.
We walked through a glass tunnel with teams of sharks happily swimming above us and a reef system where the floor was glass as well.
On Thursday the 10th May we decided to do the beaches even though it was a tad overcast. Investing in a day transport pass we cruised along the harbour to Manly. Once a mandatory browse in the shops had been completed we strolled along the beach admiring the slick moves of the surfers and munched on our sandwiches on the promenade, accompanied by a portion of chips. After disappointingly finding out that getting to Palm Beach (aka the beach used in Home and Away) would require a 3 hour return bus journey we took the catamaran back to Sydney and immediately jumped on a bus to Bondi.
On arrival we walked on the sand of the famous beach and evilly glared at the tourists who insisted on feeding the sea gulls right next to us- we both have a severe hatred towards these menacing spawn of Satan birds! Driving back along Oxford Street we jumped off the bus and walked to Mrs Macquaries Pt, the far tip of the Royal Botanic Gardens to paparazzi the sun setting over Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. Well this was a very enjoyable experience for Jess but Armelle had discovered that her water bottle had leaked and a portion of water had kindly decided to seep its way into the interior of her camera halting at photographic opportunities! After a while, Armelle started to walk back, with Jess insisting on catching her up. However this never actually happened. On reaching the gate the botanic gardens the tannoy began to announce that the gardens would be shortly shutting. In her wisdom, Armelle decided that she would have enough time to reach the other side instead of having to walk the whole way round- big mistake. All of a sudden it got very dark and nobody could be seen in any direction. A flurry of bats (the size of owls) circled overhead and a hyperventilating 22 year old frantically searched for an exit. Half dead, a gate was reached but to her horror it was padlocked- the only way out was to ring the ranger- without a phone this wasn’t exactly a possibility. It huge bold letters it was warned to climb the fence under any circumstance- what the hell!!! Anyhow, much thanks to her lucky stars, two other foolish Brits also arrived at the wrong side of the gate. After much yelling and shaking at the gate it was decided that nobody could actually bother to help! The 3 musketeers then started to walk the perimeter of the park and found a walled portion of the boundary without cast iron spikes. The guy of the group shakily scaled the 3 meter high wall and found a crate which he then tossed over for his girlfriend and Armelle. After the girlfriend took forever to clamber over the wall with constant outcries that she was going to break her legs it was Armelle’s turn which was extremely ungracious but she was thankful for the hours put in practicing yoga! After a mild sprint, Armelle arrived back at the hotel, greeted by a rather anxious Jess. We then had approximately 30 minutes to get ready for dinner with Delna, an Australian who lived in a flat opposite Armelle in Cascade Hall while on their year abroad in Calgary. After a lengthy look for a cash point we settled down for dinner at Wagamamas on King Street Wharf.
A while later we headed downstairs for a few drinks at Cargos before saying our goodbyes- see you in another couple of years Delna! We then rushed to the Ship Inn to have a night cap with Zuzanna and James, toasting to our last night together in Sydney. Friday was our last day in Sydney, as that evening we would be on the bus- an overnight journey to Byron Bay. After crossing ridiculous inner city junctions, we eventually made it to Rachael’s house in the Glebe suburb. Rachael is a friend of ours from UEA- she is on her year abroad exchange in Sydney. Sadly, Rach had recently broken her leg while bouldering on a local climbing wall. We made some tea and had a good chat about all her adventures before heading back into the city. We then walked through Hyde Park and popped into St Mary's Cathedral where a wedding was taking place. We both decided that the couple being wed must be wealthy due to: A- the wedding taking place in the cathedral and B- the bridesmaids were dressed in black and looked like multiple Audrey Hepburn’s! We then admired the classical and odd art in the Art Gallery of NSW, which Jess especially enjoyed.
After the rather disastrous attempt at watching the sunset the night before, we headed back up to the tip of the botanic gardens. The sunset was spectacular with, thankfully, both cameras in action!
To continue our very appropriate farewell to Sydney, we treated ourselves to our final Starbucks at Darling Harbour before imitating pack horses to catch the Greyhound at Central Station.

Thursday, May 03, 2007

Melbourne: 1st-5th May.

Arriving late the first of May, we took the Skybus (which, sadly, doesn't actually go in the sky) part way to our new place of residence, Hotel Bakpak. Since the Skybus didn't take us to the door of the hostel, this involved an initial night-tour of the city before we got to see it in the harsh light of day. We were greeted at reception by a guy who clearly didn't have a clue what he was doing (hence the night-duty, probably), but we didn't complain as he gave us double the amount of free internet that he should have. The next morning we awoke bright and early /groggy, but just in time for the free breakfast. We did a bit of planning and went to the local STA (of which there seemed to be one on every corner) to buy our Greyhound passes, and were sneakily sold some student cards which we were very excited about and have been loving ever since-especially when paying admission to museums, tours and cinemas (oh yes!) We then took the free city circle tram to the dockland area where we strolled along New Quay Wharf and admired the sparkling new buildings and modern art, which included a square cow up a tree... After hopping back on the tram, we disembarked at Flinders Street Station, where we wandered around the shops for a while (Armelle got very excited by Tiffany's), before taking in the atmosphere at Federation Square.
The next day was an early one again, but very exciting as we were doing the official Neighbours tour. We got onto the 'amazingly decorated' (garish) bus and watched Scott and Sharlene's wedding on the way to Erinsborough High. Long gone are the days of Jason and Kylie!
We then found ourselves at Lou Carpenter's garage, opposite Grease Monkey's and the infamous bus stop (Max and Izzy's departures). Frazer was our Neighbours celebrity, Jess had no idea who he was, but we both smiled happily for a photo!
Then it was the grand finale- a visit to Pin Oak- aka Ramsay Street, where Armelle took at least 5 photos of every house. We were completely updated on the storylines, so we're now ahead of the game as far as Neighbours is concerned.
After our brush with the celebrity world we had a good look around the Queen Victoria Market back in Melbourne, where we treated ourselves to a small but gourmet lunch. We separated in the afternoon. Armelle went to Fitzroy (which she ran around in the rain), followed by the Melbourne museum, complete with living rainforest, creepy crawlies, a Neighbours kitchen, and a working wind turbine. She waited for the rain to stop before marching through Chinatown en route back to the hostel, slipping somewhat precariously in her Birkenstocks. Jess resolved to put an end to her camera fiasco that afternoon, which had been causing her so much grief. She made several calls to N.Z, decided she could not get her own camera back, wrote a strongly worded email to STA (that had to be edited somewhat so that she could save some fire for when the expected battle), and bought another camera. She was such a nervous wreck when she got back to the hostel (at having lost it in the first place, tried her hardest to find it, and then having spent so much on a new one), that she had to have a strong coffee and phone home to calm herself. That evening we did a few hours of blog and were in bed with a hop skip and a jump.
Friday we did a tour of the Great Ocean Road which we both really enjoyed and though was brilliant value for money, especially since the day was 15 hours long! On the way we stopped at Torquay and then Bell's Beach for a coffee. We also stopped at the Lighthouse from the following T.V show 'have you ever ever felt like this when strange things happen and your going Round the Twist'. On the way to Apollo Beach where we had lunch, we stopped to see some Koalas and some very friendly and colourful birds which ate grain out of our hands.
It was great to see Koalas in the wild only a metre or so away, and we were both surprised at how unconcerned they were. We also saw our first Kookaburras there, Jess had expected them to be a lot smaller.
On the way to the 12 Apostles we did a rainforest walk through the Eucalyptus trees, and saw a very big tree that the tour guide was quite excited about, although we weren't sure why!
The 12 Apostles were a shining example of textbook geography, though we got a little carried away taking photos (as it was very windy and we wanted one of us without our hair in our faces), so we were the last on the bus, much to our embarrassment. We then saw the rest of the Apostles from further down the road, where the colours were a lot more vivid, and there were less people around which allowed you to have time to appreciate them. The next stop was at Loch Ard Gorge, the site of a shipwreck during the 1870s in which only a young gentleman and a young lady survived after being washed through this narrow opening and onto the only beach for miles. To the disgust of the press of the day (and the gentleman!), a love story did not ensue (even though he saved her life) as she hot-footed it back to Ireland, despite having lost her entire family to the wreck. The next and final stop of the day contained another ironic love story. The collapse of a Sea Arch (also ironically called London Bridge) had led to the revelation of two affairs to the couple's spouses by an amused Australian media, when the cheating pair got caught on the stack as the arch collapsed. Driving back, we stopped at Colac (Neighbours reference- where the Timmons are from), which excited Armelle again, and we had delicious noodles that were practically an all-you-can-eat in a box (though we did in fact eat-it-all!)
Saturday morning we took the tram to St. Kilda, and after some photos outside Luna Park we were disappointed to find that we couldn't go on the historic rollercoaster because of the rain. We contented ourselves with sampling St Kilda's delicacies in their infamous cake shops that would satisfy the sweetest of tooths (even Jess' Dad's!).
Heading back into Melbourne we stopped again at Federation Square to take in the Jazz festival which was in full swing, before pegging it to the Imax to see Spiderman 3, which was the biggest cinema we've ever been to, and which was completely full.
Later that evening we got our first Greyhound to Sydney, departing at 8pm and arriving 12 hours later. The journey was a lot better than we had each thought-we slept for most of it mainly because we had 2 seats each, even though Jess thought she might get hypothermia (even wearing 3 vest tops, a thermal, a fleece and her coat). The driver was about as unhelpful as he could have been in this respect, but we had our doubts whether he could even drive the bus- he'd stalled twice before we had even left Melbourne and didn't check our tickets properly, so I suppose he had bigger fish to fry than minor air-conditioning/Antarctica issues.