Pumping with adrenalin after the hike, we promptly under-estimated our driving ability and accidentally completed the (supposedly) spectacular Arthur’s Pass Scenic Drive in the dark. We were on the way back to Christchurch to see Jess’ friend and ex-housemate Rhia who although now considers herself a New-Zealander, had been on holiday to the U.K when we were first in Christchurch. Before the beginning of Arthur’s Pass National Park we paused for fish and chips in Hokitika, where some extremely rude members of staff informed us that we were going to ‘get a ticket if we went around parking like that’. Jess had actually thought her parking was quite good thank you very much, and could only think, in her ignorance, that they were joking. It turns out that it’s illegal to park facing the on-coming traffic in New Zealand though (however neatly), so while she put right her drastic error of judgment Armelle exchanged a few ‘pleasantries’ with the shop owners who had started muttering ‘….Americans’ under their breath. To top it all off, they were watching Coronation Street. Enough said. We ate our fish and chips slowly outside the shop before executing a perfect and victorious U-turn in the wide and empty road outside, and heading onwards.
After going up and down and round and round in our beloved campervan through the supposedly beautiful but definitely dark Arthur’s Pass, we eventually stumbled upon a campsite on the edge of Arthur’s Pass Village, where we dreamt to the lullaby of thundering rain and howling gales outside. In the morning we awoke to similar conditions, so thought it better use of our time to carry straight on to Christchurch than to retrace our steps for an hour or two to get back to some of the viewpoints we had missed the during the previous night’s drive. On leaving Arthur’s Pass National Park we were lucky to see some spectacular low-lying rainbows similar to those we’d seen on entering the park on the west side. We half expected to run over a pot of gold.
As we continued the weather cleared up, and the rest of the journey was reminiscent of Claire and Alex’s hot air balloon photos of the Canterbury Plains.
In Christchurch, we sneakily left Cleopatra in a car park, and headed into town for a few hours’ shopping, before meeting Rhia over a Chai Latte and a walnut and honey cream cheese bagel. Yum! The three of us and Cleopatra, after some brief introductions to Benjy the stuffed Kiwi and Donatello the Yellow-Eyed Penguin (our traveling companions), we navigated ourselves to Rhia’s ‘humble abode’, which was to be our abode too for the night. Rhia’s not so humble home was amazing, and had previously won architectural awards, with a modern and spacious feel, and Rhi’s room being split-levelled.
After a nice cup of tea, a good natter, and some fun playing games with Ziggy, their 8-week old kitten (who made us miss Gypsey and Rigolo), we preened ourselves and headed, armed with umbrellas, for a swish Italian restaurant where we treated ourselves to a delicious meal and a bottle of plonk. This was followed, of course, by the mandatory night cap in The Tap, one of Christchurch’s bars on ‘The Strip’ (unfortunately nothing to do with nakedness) by the riverside. After a good night’s sleep in a comfy bed- the first time we’d stayed in a house since leaving the U.K, we had some breakfast, thanked Rhi, and hit the road for Kaikoura. Thanks again Rhi, it was sooooo good to see you!
On arrival in Kaikoura, we were sorry to hear that the wind’d prevented the days whale-watching from taking place, so, undeterred, we booked ourselves in for 6:45 the next morning. We spent the rest of the afternoon eating and wandering (as you do), before making our way to the seal colony, where Armelle made it her mission to find the only seal and Paparazzi it to within an inch of its life! The snow-capped Kaikoura range made an overpowering back-drop as the sun went down. After a nourishing noodle-based dinner (no it actually was, we had sauce and everything, not just your average pot noodle), we were lulled to sleep by the rocking of Cleopatra, as the gale picked up force. Neither of us were very surprised when, having hauled ourselves out of bed at the aforementioned ungodly hour, the whale watching was cancelled after all.
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